Your dryer tumbles but clothes don't dry? The heating element, thermal fuse, or thermostat is likely broken. Replace it yourself and save $200+ in repair shop fees. This guide works on Whirlpool, Kenmore, Maytag, Samsung, and GE dryers.
When a dryer won't heat but still tumbles, there are three main culprits: a broken heating element, a blown thermal fuse, or a faulty thermostat. The good news is all three are easy DIY replacements that cost $15-30 in parts instead of $150-300 at a repair shop.
Unplug the dryer from the wall outlet. If it's a gas dryer, also turn off the gas valve. Wait 5 minutes for any residual heat to dissipate. This prevents electrical shock while you work.
The three most common failures are:
A safety device that blows when the dryer overheats. If it's blown, the dryer won't heat at all. This is the most common failure. Cost to replace: $5-10.
Generates the heat that dries your clothes. If it fails, heat is weak or nonexistent. Cost to replace: $15-30.
Regulates the heating element temperature. If faulty, the dryer runs but doesn't heat sufficiently. Cost to replace: $20-40.
Most dryers have the heating element in the back. Remove the rear panel by unscrewing 2-4 bolts. Some models require removing the front drum first. Check your specific model online for the exact process. Save all screws in a container.
Set your multimeter to DC resistance (ohms). Touch the probes to the heating element terminals. A good element should show 10-50 ohms of resistance. If it shows infinity (∞), the element is blown and needs replacement.
Disconnect the wire terminals from the old heating element (note their positions). Remove the mounting bolts. Slide out the element. Install the new element, reconnect wires to the same positions, and tighten the mounting bolts. Make sure connections are tight.
Locate the thermal fuse (usually a small cylindrical component near the heating element). Note its position. Remove the wire terminals or unscrew it. Install the new fuse in the same position. This is a 2-minute job once you find it.
Replace all panels and bolts. Plug the dryer back in. Run a test cycle with a damp towel inside. The dryer should now produce heat. Feel the exhaust vent — warm air should be flowing out. If still no heat, the thermostat may be faulty.
Still no heat after replacing the element? The thermostat might be faulty. You can test it with a multimeter using the same process as the heating element. Replace if it shows infinite resistance.
Dryer still won't start at all? You may have accidentally disconnected an important wire. Check that all wire terminals are properly reconnected to their original positions.
Weak heat but not completely cold? The thermal fuse may be blocking heat. Replace it with a new one rated for your dryer model (usually 192°F or 240°F).
Find replacement heating elements, thermal fuses, and thermostats at our store. Make sure you have your exact dryer model number for the correct part.
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